AC Atlantic Crossing Canaries to Lesser Antilles

THEY HAVE MADE IT! Saturday 4th April 2009
We are delighted to report that we anchored just off the main town, Gustavia, in St Barts - Caribbean at 2.27pm or 1427hrs local time today (Saturday)!
After 27 days at sea (longest passage so far) from the Canaries we are of course feeling a little strange to be stationary. But hey a good feeling to finally have completed our second Trans Atlantic crossing and compared to our North Atlantic crossing (Oct 2006) this has been a 'walk in the park' ha,ha, and despite it's frustrations, we now understand what they mean in talking about the Mid Atlantic 'milk run'!
Our approach overnight towards the island was a number of starboard and port hand down wind gibes with north east winds. However that changed this morning to south east which was fine. We didn't want to use the engine as we knew we had a problem with the propellor so we actually anchored surrounded by a large number of yachts under sail - tricky but fortunately all went according to plan!
Terry has since dived down to check firstly, the anchor to ensure it is looking ok which is is and then the propellor. Definitely have a problem with the latter which he will sort out over the next couple of days.
We decided that we will check in with authorities tomorrow by dinghy.
But more importantly we are now making our way through our bottle of champagne NO 1 which has travelled with us all the way from NZ - celebrating our safe passage over some 3000 odd nautical miles across the Atlantic and enjoying the privilege that tonight we can go to sleep in our own bed at the same time! And tomorrow is another day and thankfully for the time being - not at sea!
Thanks for your encouragement and support during this marathon!
Love Lois and Terry

Date:31/03/2009 Day:24
Position:19 53 N, 57 04 W
NM to go:355, Wind Speed:12, Wind Direction:060, Weather:Sunny, Sea state:Light
Although winds have been moderate to light the sea state has been a pain most of the time. This is because there are two superimposing swell patterns, one from the North and one from the NE. Even the official weather reports from the Miami Tropical Centre forecast them. This means that the waves are sometimes quite large, steep and confused, quite unlike normal long ocean swells. This gives us bouts of undue rolling and slows AC down. Nothing sinister however.

Our man in Brisbane and famous British circumnavigator, Matt Clarke, has reported light winds ahead and at this time it looks like he is right. Our man currently in the high and low country of the South Island, Murray Aldridge, keeps the blog current from wherever he is along with helpful sailing information and local stuff.

A couple of days ago Lois noticed a new clunking sound emanating from the stern area. She is very aware of every sound in every situation which is a great asset. Turns out it was the spigot on the rudder arm to which the autopilot hydraulic arm is attached, was working loose. A good thing to fix so we did. Lois on the helm with me below with our Dale Wrightson supplied walkie-talkies.

Yesterday we set the MPS (Spinnaker) and it was just great. Cruising along at 6 - 7.5 knots with the sail steadying AC beautifully. That took us past a mild celebration of our 12th Wedding Anniversary and into the very pleasant night. At 0330 this morning a small puff shredded the sail up the luff and across the foot. It took about an hour for us to get the remnants down and away and continue on our way under headsail and mizzen.

Hopefully we we be able to effect repairs in the BVI (or get a new one?) but meantime we are back to making slow progress. Such is life.

Because of the sea state we have decided not to use the Mainsail when the wind is abaft the beam (ie behind us). Despite efforts to tie the boom in place the constant flogging creates more damage to battens and fastenings than it is worth. Also we don't achieve much extra speeed.

The weather is excellent, our stocks of food and beverage would sustain us for months , plenty of water as we make it and fuel for the genset in good supply but it would be imprudent to use the main engine for passage making. Could be another 5 days or so before we see land. Will keep you posted..

Love

The Jolly Rogers

Date:26/03/2009 Day:19
Position:N20 06,W45 34
NM to go:980, Wind Speed:14,Wind Direction:150,Weather:Fine,Sea State:Light

What a day! You will recall that we attempted to go up the mast last evening but gave it away. Most of yesterday was spent preparing to mount two halyards, one with a new block (Pulley} and stainless steel "S" hook for quick attachment at the masthead. At sunrise the winds were light (% kts) and the swell looked less inhibiting so woke Lois to try again. I almost reneged at the halfway point but bit the bullet and continued to the top under the control of, and encouragement of, Lois. Hanging on with one arm, holding the halyards in the other, put me at the limit I must admit. Stopped for rests on the way up. Once at the top it was, as all the bits and pieces converge, slightly easier to hang on despite the increased arc of movement.

Fortunately everything fitted well and was able to load the halyards through the blocks and send them down to Lois. Whew!!

Having two arms fully available on the way down was a comparative luxury. We were so pleased to be back on deck with two fully intact halyards in place. Poor Lois had to break her rest period to do this... life at sea!!

Some of you experienced sailors may ask? 1. Why didn't we have spare halyards pre rigged? 2. What about using the Main and/or the Headsail halyards? Answers.. 1. Yes we should have. 2. Didn't want to risk damage to the s/s halyards or the masthead but would have as a last resort.

After breakfast re routed the halyards. On the way back to the deck, because of the swaying, they found their own individual circuitous way back so all that had to be sorted.

In the previous 24 hours we only covered 86 miles toward our destination because of light and fickle winds. At around 1000 hrs in came the wind at 20 knots from the SSE no less. Ain't supposed to do that here. But this was good as it picked us up to 6 - 7 knots in the correct direction with Headsail and Mizzen. Well that lasted until midday and the wind dropped to about 14 knots. Time to raise the spinnaker!

Did that except the throat of the launching sock collapsed. Back down to the deck with it, removed the sock, and re-launched it "au naturale". A lot of activity and effort for a crew of two.

Since the have been clipping along at 5.5 - 6.5 knots, on course and steady. At last.

At 1430 we crossed the "1000 miles to" go barrier so Lois prepared a wonderful fish and Singapore noodle dish with wine. Something we don't normally do before cocktail hour.

Love

The Jolly Rogers

M&M.. Methinks I know why the apparent counter current. Below 5 knots boat speed, SOG is greater, above 5 knots boat speed SOG is less. Must be our log is not linearly accurate? Now receiving Forecasts from the US. Hope you are well. T&L.

Date:25/03/2009 Day:18
Position:N19 39,W43 57
NM to go:1074, Wind Speed:12,Wind Direction:090,Weather:Sunny, Sea State:Moderate
Not much has changed since our last report. Continuing light Easterly winds means our progress is slow, averaging 5 knots, but comfortable so that is OK with us. Our hot water system failed with a burnt out heating element so that took a while to fix. Lois caught her second Mahi Mahi which was twice the size as the first one so we are replete with fish at the moment.
Although the winds are light there is still a moderate residual swell. We tried to set new Spinnaker halyards this afternoon but gave it away after hoisting to above the boom as too marginal/dangerous..darn!!
Love
The Jolly Rogers
M&M Hope Murray is enjoying the 4wd adventure in the South Is. Matt, as you can see we have not moved south yet because of the added 300-400 miles and we thought we would be able to reinstate our MPS...maybe tomorrow? Please keep the info coming as you are able to. We are not receiving Inmarsat weather reports at the moment but I request/get a Gib about every three days. Any more frequently takes to to much air time. Love. T&L


Date:18/03/09 Day:11
Position:N1617,W02827, Miles to go:1977, Wind Speed:18, Wind Direction:000Weather:Sunny, Sea State:Light
Comments:Current destination is still St Martin. We have traveled 1700 nm from Gibraltar, 1000 nm from the Canaries and only two "Tasmans" to go to reach the Lesser Antilles. Not far in the scheme of things what!
Until this morning we have had our MPS (Spinnaker) doing a sterling job in light/medium airs for the past few days dragging us SW towards the elusive "Trades" belt. Had a few glitches though. Two evenings ago the halyard parted at the top of the mast, it had chafed through against the forestay. The entire sail dropped into the briny so it took L & I some time to get it back on board in the dark just after dinner... darn it! Next morning under headsail the swells and conditions were not too bad so Lois winched me up to the top to re-rove the halyard. Not something we really wanted to do but we needed the sail power to get us South. We were both pleased on my arrival back on deck. A lot of movement up there even in mild conditions, especially for crew of our vintage.
Last night just before midnight our Genset failed. Lois was on watch and had to prise me out of a deep sleep. Turns out the vee belt had parted so all was repaired and operational in time for tea at 0100 hrs. The Genset is our lifeblood out here.
At about 1000 hrs this morning the halyard parted again and once again we had to retrieve the mess. Yes we tried to avoid it happening again by routing the halyard differently but that didn't work OK! The problem is the halyard block is mounted on the wrong side of the forestay for a starboard tack. At the next opportunity we will mount a second halyard on the other side.. Probably when we reach a sanctuary in the Caribbean.
Oh yes, our sump pump failed after the Spinnaker episode, flooding from the grey water system added to the aromatic's of the morning..Such is life! Now fixed.
Now some better/good news...Had the MPS not fallen down we would have had to take it down as from that time the start of the "Trades" have kicked in and we have been under full sail since that time making over 6 knots and, would you believe it, in the right direction. May it continue.
Whilst we were packing and stowing the now dry MPS Lois a fish jumped onto Lois "the fisher woman's" killer line.. but jumped off before she could attend to it. happy that 1. there are fish out here and 2. the lure she has chosen worked...watch this space!
Our support team, Murray on blog and weather (Auckland and the World) and Matt (Brisbane) on weather, are just doing a great unpaid job for us. We are so grateful.
Cheers
The Jolly Rogers in Mid Atlantic (Sort Of)

Date:13/03/09 Day:06
Position:N20 53,W024 39
Miles to go:2100, Wind Speed:12, Wind Direction:040
Weather:Fine, Sea State:Light
Comments: We are now 200 miles north west of Cape Verde Islands or 700 nm SW of Las Palmas in the Canaries, our last departure point!
This is our 6th day at sea and all is well! In fact we were just saying that it is the most enjoyable continuous sailing we have done in a long time - long may it last! We haven't put the main sail up yet, just a combination of using the head sail with the mizzen or the MPS with the mizzen. The wind speed has not exceeded 20 knots but at times there has been no wind - overall very pleasant!
We are heading south west looking for the trade winds before we head west! Only 2100 miles to go!!!!
No sign of life out here other than many pods of dolphins who visit at least once a day.
Thank goodness no sign of other vessels especially fishing boats so our watches are not stressful compared to what we have been subject to recently.
Have the fishing line out but no luck yet!
We crossed the Tropic of Cancer at 1006 hrs GMT for the fourth time; probably for the last time in AC. The Equator and the Tropic of Capricorn will be special events to look forward to.
Last early evening the tack line on the MPS parted as it had caught up on the forestay attachment. Fixed that this morning and added a covering plastic hose so that that won't happen again...ha,ha. Except for the first day and a half motoring we have had Champagne conditions with only a few hours of almost no wind. So far we have averaged about 130 miles per day. Very happy with the gentle conditions..we are not in a race!
It is sooo pleasant that Lois is creating a veritable garden of herbs in the cockpit... and the seeds are indeed germinating. Part of her anti-scurvy programme!

Food quality and service is still Cordon Bleu+!!!

These transmissions are via ground radio stations. At the moment we are equidistant from Belgium, Trinidad and Nova Scotia. Generally we are able to connect just on dusk.

Lots of Love
Lois and Terry

Date: 10/03/09 Day 03
Position: N25 03, W019 02, Miles to go:2600
Wind Speed:15kn, Wind Direction:040
Weather:Fine, Sea State:Light
Comments: Left Las Palmas 1250 hrs on the 8th of March. Destination is St Martin in the Lesser Antilles. Actual distance to go will depend on our route. We are moving SSE until we pick up the trades assuming they exist at this time?
Lois writes.."Would you believe despite the forecast on Sunday of North East winds we motored south into head winds!! After we passed south of Gran Canaria, just after dark, the wind strength decreased to literally nothing so we continued to motor until this morning which was our deadline to turn off the engine! We have to save our fuel for power from our Generator. Fortunately the wind direction changed to our starboard quarter and light enough to set the MPS (a type of spinnaker)which we haven't used since our passage from Hawaii to San Diego. Very comfortable and we are ticking along between 5-7 knots. We need get south just north of Cape Verde Islands before heading west in the trades. Let's hope these winds keep up so we can head in the right direction.
The temperature is warming up considerably as we head south so rather pleasant. Have had drinks on the aft deck last couple of nights.
Another couple of days and we will really be in the swing of living at sea! So far feeling AOK and managing to deliver 3 good quality meals a day."
Lots of Love Lois and Terry

Las Palmas, Gran Canaria – 8 March 2009

We arrived in Las Palmas last Sunday the 1st after 5 days at sea from Gibraltar!
Overall it was a comfortable passage however we did a lot of motor sailing because of the light conditions which of course we will not be able to do on the next leg!! However we were keen to push on so we used our precious diesel so we made good time in 5 days! I guess the good news is that it was a lot more reasonably priced in Gibraltar (0.59p per litre)and even cheaper here we understand! Certainly a lot different than we paid in October for a litre in Corfu @ 1.48 euros!

Anyway the staff at the marina were very welcoming and efficient so our check in went seamlessly for a change!!! We were tied up, power on and checked in within 40 minutes of our arrival. At the end of that process a lady by the name of Lorna (on a boat just along from us) came along to welcome us and during the course of chatting invited us for drinks and then subsequently dinner! She and her husband Lee (Americans) and their two children – twins Elliot & Eden aged 6 years - are travelling also across the Atlantic leaving any day as well! They have been waiting for some parts for two weeks which have now finally arrived!.

We had a very pleasant evening sitting on the aft deck of their 60 foot Catamaran! We also met another French couple both named Dominique and their little son who were also on board for dinner.

So we were pretty up to beat on local knowledge by the end of the evening which was great news, however the next day we ventured only as far as the marina bar to pick up mail and spent the remainder of the day relaxing and watching a couple of great movies lent to us by Lee and Lorna!

We have made several trips into the main part of town where a fabulous a food market is located - - Mercado Centrale - which sells produce, meat, fish and seafood and poultry and pretty much everything else right down to fresh herbs.
To my delight the surrounding area was also littered with excellent Asian shops so was able to stock up with products that I hadn’t seen for a very long time!!

This place certainly has a great feel to it – great selections of bars, restaurants, shops etc and unlike many Mediterranean towns in winter it has a lively feel, I guess it is a warm retreat for many people in winter – the temperature today is 22 degrees! The public beach adjacent to the marina is absolutely pristine – very impressive!

It has been a bonus to have met Lee and Lorna and spend time with them during the course of the last week and hopefully we will see them soon in the Caribbean!

So we are leaving today – Sunday - on our journey across the Atlantic – nearly 3000 nm and probably will take between 3-4 weeks depending on the wind! It is known as the ‘milk run’ passage – well I believe that when we experience it’ but if that’s the case it will make the comparison to our North Atlantic passage a walk in the park – here’s hoping!

Once again Murray Aldridge will keep our blog posted and we will pickup normal email where we get to the Caribbean or if you need to contact more urgently contact Murray Aldridge. We will not have a mobile until we return to NZ now!

Leg 3 is about to begin – not what we expected to be doing however we are organised and in good shape and spirits!!! Of course we are looking forward to getting to the Caribbean.

Lots of Love
The Jolly Rogers

Gibraltar to Canary Islands

27/02/09
Day No: 04
Position: N 31 20 W 011 36
Miles to go: 280
Wind Speed/Direction: 15 kn 045
Weather: Cloudy
Sea State: Moderate
Destination is Las Palmas, Gran Canaria, Canary Islands. We are 430 nm from Gibraltar.
Hi trust this finds you well.
We left Queensway Quay Marina at 0840 on Tuesday 24 after they opened the floating boom to let us out. We then moved around the harbour to the fuel dock across from the Airport. Departed the dock at 1000 hrs on our way to the Canaries. At least the fuel prices were much better than anywhere in the Med.
To take advantage of the Eastward set we had to leave by 1100 at the latest. We got that right, having a pleasant motor at 6.5+ knots out through the Straits, crossing the Traffic Separation Zones in the presence of heaps of shipping in calm and warm conditions. The forecast for Gibraltar and the Straits was for Easterlies force 8 in the early hours. In fact they, according to our Met Info have had force 9 conditions for the last 3 days... We were thankful to have missed that!!
Queensway Quay Marina...hmmm. Quite new, right downtown, chic with bars, restaurants and up market surrounding apartments, even reasonably priced by European standards but there it ends. A design fault makes it very uncomfortable even in light airs.
It is located on the old harbour/city wall and is about the size of a football field and is fully enclosed except for a very narrow right angled entrance. All of that is enclosed in the old "Great" harbour which is almost totally enclosed by 2 surrounding breakwaters probably up to 1/4 of a mile out from the main docks.
It suffers from sympathetic resonance! Ie any small surge outside is amplified inside the Marina. (just like an acoustic guitar or violin amplifies the small movement of the strings for certain "resonant" frequencies).
We experienced only 20- 25 kts when we first arrived and AC and all the other Vessels were uncomfortably moving up and down and in and out. We suffered damage to our transom and wore out one of our stern lines. Sleeping was difficult.
Apparently last October a force 9 caused havoc and mayhem with the floating pontoons breaking loose and severe damage to a number of vessels. People were stranded on their yachts and vise versa. It will be interesting to find out what has happened over the last few days??
We motored the first night and except last night with head winds and lumpy seas we have been able to sail most of the time. At one point we gybe tacked towards Casablanca and the out again until the winds became reasonably favourable. The downside was the increased frequency of b... fishing boats. Large ships were quite numerous to start with but having moved away from the Moroccan coast has made our night life easier.
Our new sail looks good and is working well.
Our speed is down to below 4 kts so we had better attend to it.
AC